I’ve yet to find anything in a can or jar, even the priciest San Marzanos, that can match the flavor of a homegrown tomato. That said, I’ve planted San Marzanos—or at least varieties labeled as such, on a few occasions. The flavor tends to fall short, imo, and I’ve always chalked it up to soil and climate differences. Maybe that’s the culprit, maybe not. I've had much better luck with Amish pastes - also meaty, low acid, and when not too ripe, also good slicing tomatoes. If there’s any complaint, it’s that they can sometimes verge on too sweet, which I guess is a problem most gardeners would welcome. By the way, I believe I first heard of the Amish paste from you, and now I’m curious about your 'shift' toward San Marzano.
Such a thoughtful, thought-packed piece, Paul. It's a lot to absorb in one sitting. About Grandi I have my doubts--he often seems like a simple provocateur, a publicity hound in other words. Some of what he says (about carbonara, for instance) makes sense, other parts just don't make sense. On tomatoes, e.g., San Marzanos, few would trace them back to the "King of Peru" but there's strong evidence that they were known and used in southern Italy in the 17th century. There's a great piece by the late Rudolf Grewe in an old Journal of Gastronomy--I will try to find it and maybe repost the whole thing on my Substack. It's too valuable to lose. And then on tinned tomatoes vs. fresh: of course fresh is always better but for many of us who don't live in tomato-able climates (like Maine) or who are unable to have a garden at all, tinned has to rule the table. I don't see any other way around it. And I love the pasta al pomodoro technique. Revolutionary and delightful.
But I'll have more to say on all these subjects in the weeks ahead. Thank you!
I’ve yet to find anything in a can or jar, even the priciest San Marzanos, that can match the flavor of a homegrown tomato. That said, I’ve planted San Marzanos—or at least varieties labeled as such, on a few occasions. The flavor tends to fall short, imo, and I’ve always chalked it up to soil and climate differences. Maybe that’s the culprit, maybe not. I've had much better luck with Amish pastes - also meaty, low acid, and when not too ripe, also good slicing tomatoes. If there’s any complaint, it’s that they can sometimes verge on too sweet, which I guess is a problem most gardeners would welcome. By the way, I believe I first heard of the Amish paste from you, and now I’m curious about your 'shift' toward San Marzano.
Such a thoughtful, thought-packed piece, Paul. It's a lot to absorb in one sitting. About Grandi I have my doubts--he often seems like a simple provocateur, a publicity hound in other words. Some of what he says (about carbonara, for instance) makes sense, other parts just don't make sense. On tomatoes, e.g., San Marzanos, few would trace them back to the "King of Peru" but there's strong evidence that they were known and used in southern Italy in the 17th century. There's a great piece by the late Rudolf Grewe in an old Journal of Gastronomy--I will try to find it and maybe repost the whole thing on my Substack. It's too valuable to lose. And then on tinned tomatoes vs. fresh: of course fresh is always better but for many of us who don't live in tomato-able climates (like Maine) or who are unable to have a garden at all, tinned has to rule the table. I don't see any other way around it. And I love the pasta al pomodoro technique. Revolutionary and delightful.
But I'll have more to say on all these subjects in the weeks ahead. Thank you!