Anchovies and Umami

Tiny fish, big potential

Anchovies from L’Escala

Anchovies have been a source of depth and flavor in Mediterranean cooking since the ancient Greeks first pulled them from the seas for curing and consumption. Today, anchovies are brought to L’Escala on the Spanish Costa Brava from the Bay of Biscay and the Mediterranean, where they are hand-processed and preserved by Callol I Serrats and other small producers. Anchovies from this region are widely regarded as some of the best in Spain and perhaps the world. Callol I Serrats is the oldest curing operation in the region, and their anchovies are distinct from those you’ve probably tasted before. Soft on the palate and delicately fishy, they evoke a briny memory of the sea that is refreshing and welcome to those accustomed to more pungent and lingering anchovies. After these initial briny notes, the Callol I Serrats anchovies give way to a deeper meatiness that tapers into a pleasant iron-like finish reminiscent of oysters.

Cooking and Eating

Unlike their salty, one-noted competitors, Callol I Serrats anchovies cry out to be enjoyed without elaboration - delicious straight from the jar or draped over toasts rubbed with raw garlic. While these anchovies can easily stand alone, they also adapt well to a supporting role. When cooked and combined with other ingredients, they have a way of pleasantly fortifying existing flavors. Even those who consider themselves anchovy averse might be surprised by what they can add to some of their favorite dishes. Brassicas such as broccoli, broccoli rabe, and cauliflower share an affinity for these anchovies’ savory complement. So too do mustard greens and other bitter lettuces. The softness of the Callol I Serrats anchovies is especially welcome in a salad dressing, where champagne vinegar, lemon, shallot, and parsley lend a brightness to the anchovies and their oil that results in a rich yet refreshing flavor. Better in a dressing like this than in a traditional Caesar, where this delicate anchovy would be lost among the other punchy Caesar components. Regardless of how you use these anchovies, experimenting with their subtle flavor is a rewarding exercise. I hope you’ll give it a try.

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